Venice is Sinking

The bridge of sighs: just one way to have a last look at Venice

There were two opinions about Venice among the people who talked to me about it before I left. A couple of people said they really didn't like Venice. Having gone once, they said they would not go again. A couple of other people told me they really liked it. One had visited several times. They thought it was historic and beautiful.  

Venice is beautiful, but it has some issues.

Long since past its prime, with only one fifth of the population it had in its heyday, the historic centre of Venice is in some respects as much of a ruin as Pompeii. Its local economy is skewing toward tourism just as much. And it is inundated to the point of peril by tourists.

Our day started with a stop at the Murano glass factory for a glass blowing demonstration and some high pressure sales tactics.

After we spent some money on pretty glass, we launched over to the old city. We were on our own recognizance until about quarter to two. We wandered among the shops on our way to the Rialto bridge. When we were most of the way there, it started to rain. Hard. 

Soaked to the skin, we did make our way to the bridge. It was almost deserted, which made getting wet worth it.

We stopped at a reasonably decent place for lunch. I ordered a glass of the local beer. Then I remembered how hard it is to find a washroom and let Bruce drink most of mine.

Around 2 p.m. we met up with a "local expert", a charming octogenarian named Anna. She took us through St. Marks - so crammed with tourists it was almost impossible to move - and then led us to some pretty squares far away from the touristy city centre.

Anna spelled out Venice's dilemma. The fine old homes are falling into ruin because no one can afford to maintain them and pay all the taxes. Ownership reverts to the city, and then the homes are either bought by hotel companies or converted into convention centres, galleries or some other kind of enterprise - but people no longer live in them. 

Nice old home long since boarded up and crumbling into the canal.

People who do live in Venice deal with the challenges of a non-self-sustaining city surrounded by water. Real estate is very expensive; groceries have to be purchased on the mainland. The historical preservation restrictions on the city make it expensive to upgrade buildings to accommodate different needs as demographics change. 

Our guide Anna on a tiny canal next to picturesque homes

And just about everyone works in the tourism business.

I understand the two opinions of Venice better. People who like it see what Venice once was. Those who don't see what Venice is becoming: a theme park.

Thanks for reading!

Karen